it's raining... again

when coast-hugging roads are thrown into the mix, and I was shocked when Greg mentioned that we had already had 24 stops! “Remember Ottawa? That seems so long ago!” Gosh. Because we have been seizing the day (carpe diem!), we have allowed a few special times to go unblogged. Not only do I want to make sure to immortalize each adventure so our family and friends feel like they are here with us, but selfishly I also want to recount each day so we can re-read all our posts and sigh, “omigosh, that was the best!” when we are feeling nostalgic or stale. Grab a hot chocolate and nestle into your favorite chair… let me remember for you a few of the fun times (and situations) we previously glossed over.

Early in our journey, between Toronto and Super Smokers in Eureka, Missouri, we enjoyed a few days with family. The McCrady family welcomed us with a full queen-sized bed and a Speakman shower head that went immediately on my list for Santa.

Where's Hannnnk?

Jen and the crew took us to Piccolo Forno, a beautiful rustic brick-oven pizza joint that welcomed wines and ciders brought from home– Levi and Megan polished off a bottle of sparkling cider and we all whispered about the lady with the hand bag that boasted a working clock larger than Flavor Flav’s 1980’s pop-swatch necklace. I can just imagine her discovering that purse in a little gift boutique, “Now THAT’S different!” and immediately plunking down $39.95. It was so glorious to return to a familiar household and spread out on a comfy couch with wine, cupcakes, sleepy dogs and humorous children.

Leaving the McCrady household was difficult, as we wanted to be there to root on Jen and her field hockey team on their journey to state play-offs. With the ‘good times and situations’ mantra in our heads we continued on our way, refreshed and not a bit hungry!

happy kids at the ice cream shoppe

Our quick visit with John and Kirsten in Columbus was next, complete with a men’s hairstyling session, some heartfelt talks and the best ice cream I have ever had. Yes, you heard me. Our swift thinking friends took us to Jeni’s Ice Creams, where I discovered my new favorite flavor, gravel–salted caramel with (autumnal) add-ins. We slept like logs that night and were sent on our way the next morning with 2 apples and a lovely note by the front door. That John, he’s the best.

Proceeding in the rain toward Michigan for some tailgating and Saundra time, I knew the football game would be an emotional day for the entire crew, as much of the experience had always revolved around Tom’s love for the Wolverines.

go blue!

Despite the crazy weather and the not-so-victorious game, we enjoyed the kindness of neighboring tailgaters with jambalaya and carried on the family tradition with Tom in our hearts. Saundra led us through the rain in town for a commemorative Schlitz at The Blue Tractor and I kept my eyes open for all the fairy doors she had pointed out to me the year before.

I must also tell you about Halloween in Livingston, Montana. Thanks to Rudy and Diana for all the suggestions and for letting us boondock on the most beautiful ranch in Montana!!! As we rolled into town, which by the way is now one of my top 2 favorite American towns, we realized it was Halloween only because I happened to glance into the window of the McDonald’s we were passing and spied a kiddosaurus rex waiting on his happy meal. Of course we sadly had no costumes for our night on the town, but we forged ahead anyway. Let’s back up a minute– I need to explain the gorgeousness of Diana’s ranch… I took a self-guided tour, as Diana is tending to one of her other beuatiful homes, or may be off fishing in Florida. Dwell + Country Living (British Edition) + Elle Decor (Australia) = Diana’s ranch. Glazed concrete floors, cowhide upholstered headboards, giant vintage plate-glass windows displaying unbelievable vistas of the moon rising over the mountains comprise Diana’s home… and that’s just the interior.

boondocked in Livingston

Diana's driveway

Situated in a copse of trees up a private wild-grass lined lane, her home is flanked by open decks, used to fully soak in the spectacular 360 degree views. Greeted by two antlered deer upon our arrival on the ranch, we situated the airstream so we could enjoy mountain views the next morning. It was absolutely wild and breathtaking. Okay, back to town. We settled into the Murray for an IPA

the murray

and to gear up for a fancy dinner next door in the old hotel’s Bistro.

It was immediately apparent that the Murray was set up for a Halloween extravaganza–and a band was just arriving to set up. For us, loving a town usually occurs because of interactions with the locals… and in this case, my love of Livingston tripled as the young costumed couple next to us got very chatty (in a good way) and told us all about the 10,000 people that populated their hometown. After dinner, when we returned to the Murray, and our new friends, Tara and Matt tried to answer some of our questions… “Why is it that every couple knows how to dance….and DOES?” I asked enviously. Tara thought it was because they were required to learn in gym class in middle school. I think it’s because Livingston is just pretty darn cool.

lotsa time and energy went into this.

Matt took second place in the costume contest to a very clever (but not more so than Matt) lunch lady, complete with hair net, hairy mole and food filled tray. See if you can figure out Matt’s costume.

Livingston, you are so fun, so lively and you remain in my memory as the perfect western town, complete with rustic shop signs and friendly folks. Thanks for the memories. Greg will be posting video footage of this leg shortly.

Okay, that catches us up on some missing posts…

This brings me to yesterday’s tricky drive on 101 down Oregon’s beautifully natural coast, where Greg complied by pulling over every 50 miles or so to capture the ocean and haystack rocks in video and photographs!

splashy

wood that has drifted

sea air!

We had some small breaks in the rain as we got settled in Florence, Oregon so we took advantage by finding the jetty on which to enjoy a west coast sunset!

Ruby in the grass

I also have to mention what a wonderful honeymoon companion Luna has been; she has enjoyed the fresh sea air here and some grassy snacks. She’s even gone outside and roamed around in the rain, purring the entire time. The allure of the campground smells and pine needles made it too compelling for her not to.

Heading south to northern California today in the rain (it’s becoming the norm), we are looking forward to a stop at the Sierra Nevada Brewery and some hikes through the redwoods. Thanks for daytripping with me through memory lane.

sunset on the jetty

sunset glow

gorgeous.

Wow.  So today was supposed to be my day to drive.  You see, each day Greg and I take turns at the wheel to demonstrate partnership and respect for one other.  Well, actually, we do it to allow equal time to catch up on blog entries, photographs, videos and wedding thank yous.  This particular morning, we opted to traverse a winding scenic route through Big Horn National Forest rather than the extremely windy and boring interstate jaunt  from Sheridan, Wyoming to Livingston, Montana.  It has been the most beautiful drive we’ve had yet–well, so far…  I am currently enjoying the drive from the the luxury of the passenger’s seat with my chronically narcoleptic cat after white knuckling it UP the mountain.  Not only was I a bit nervous about the giant drop-offs to our right and then our left, but I was also freaking out about how beautiful the drive was.  After several longing glances at my camera, I was delighted when Greg offered to take the wheel so I could snap some shots.

Longing for her camera

He is so good!  Boy, was I relieved, because it was time to descend the 9,340 feet of switchbacks and 10% downgrades.

Hairy, any way you drive it.

I let Greg worry about the logistics while I continued to document the glorious vistas framed by the dinky limitations of our windshield.  As our brakes began to smoke, Greg asked himself aloud, “What would Stew do?” and knew the answer would be, “Let your transmission do the work.”  And so Greg obviously guided us skillfully and safely down the other side of that mountain because now we are galloping along in Montana.  All this business may have caused my camera to start smoking as well.

Greg's side of the mountain.

Last evening was our first night out in the west so you can imagine we were seeking a saloon-type situation complete with an arm-gartered piano player and an upstairs brothel.  What we found was a perfect western watering hole called the Mint Bar on the main street, which also housed custom saddleries, closed boot shops (it was after 6 pm so each front window was smudgy from my face pressing and drooling) and an old timey JC Penney.

ye olde time.

We lassoed our horses to the hitching post (we wish) and stepped on in to what may or may not have been Wyoming’s premier museum of taxidermy.  The Mint Bar boasted a stamped tin ceiling and the walls were papered with what looked to me like hieroglyphics, but were actually wood panels displaying all the local ranchers’ brands.  The animals, frozen in time, ranged from a giant antlered rabbit to Greg’s new Christmas wish list item:  a stately moose head.  Do you think our Paco at home (yes, we have one mounted deer head already) would feel out-antlered?

stuffed with beer. stuffed with cotton.

Real cowboys sipped their draughts at the bar and I imagined them to be discussing rodeo tactics or cattle birthing.  They looked very hardened, their skin weathered by sun and wind, and their hats tattered and dirty from long days on dusty ranches.  Here’s the ugly truth:  real cowboys sometimes wear mom jeans (unbeknownst to them).  Yes–high waisted, belted, and tapered-legged wrangler’s, lee’s and levi’s can easily become mom jeans when fitted snuggly over cowboy boots.  Out of respect and fear, Greg and I kept our giggles hushed and concentrated on dumping coins into the jukebox to further enhance our western night out.  We punched in our favorites from Johnny Cash, Patsy Cline and the Dixie Chicks, and it wasn’t until Greg’s Journey selection began playing that the bartender decided to trump the jukebox with her own bar speakers.

After a few beers and enough time to properly admire each animal, we headed to a local rib and chop house on a friend’s suggestion where Greg enjoyed a fine 12 oz. filet and I devoured cedar plank salmon and huckleberry viniagrette dressed greens.  We were actually too stuffed to order dessert.  Contemplating a night cap back at the mint bar, we decided to return home to the trailer to get snuggled in and enjoy one of our favorite wedding gifts –thank you Rinaldi family–home made basil liqueur!

We awoke this morning to a party of peacocks scurrying by, with one lone male displaying all his glory to a cluster of less than stellar lady peacocks pecking at each other.

passing through.

That brings me to where we are now, on our way to Livingston, Montana to boondock on a friend’s ranch since she’s got a billion gorgeous acres to spare and share!  Greg just wisely delegated the remaining juice in the brakes to avoid obliterating an unexpected deer who was apparently lolligagging behind his dear deer friend in the field across the highway.  WHEW!  I guess Greg earned the Rush marathon play time he somehow managed to sneak onto our stereo when I wasn’t looking.

We are really looking forward to some serious boot shopping and beer drinking while we hunt down another memorable western bar– one that is hopefully into watching the World Series.  Go Phillies!

drool worthy.

11/24/09 – an update: here’s the video detailing our drive. Greg was able to edit the footage and get it posted online:

Click here to view the embedded video.